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Two weeks. Four incredible (and occasionally infuriating) hotels, one unforgettable dinner, and a country that never stops delivering views worth the jet lag. This was our grand Italy loop — Rome to start, the Tuscan countryside for a breather, Capri for glamour (and a reality check), Sorrento to close it out in style, and one very unexpected last night before flying home.
Here’s the full rundown, stop by stop — the good, the bad, and the “book this immediately” moments.
Rome: Orient Express La Minerva
Rome is a city full of wonders, but our stay at the newly opened Orient Express La Minerva truly elevated our visit to a whole new level of comfort, elegance, and charm.
From the moment we began planning our trip, the concierge and reservations team impressed us with their excellent communication and responsiveness. Every inquiry was met with a prompt, thoughtful reply — something that immediately gave us confidence in choosing this hotel. We especially appreciated that they took note of our child’s allergy during the planning process.
Our arrival experience was nothing short of regal. We were welcomed like royalty, with a seamless check-in and warm interactions that instantly made us feel at home. The staff throughout our stay were gracious, professional, and accommodating.
The hotel itself is a work of art. After a four-year renovation, it reopened just three months before our visit. Every corner speaks of refined design, luxury, and thoughtful details. It’s one of the most beautiful and comfortable hotels we’ve had the pleasure of staying in.
Location-wise, La Minerva strikes the perfect balance — it’s adjacent to the Pantheon, offering breathtaking rooftop views, yet it sits just beyond the tourist-heavy zones, providing a welcome sense of peace. Each morning, we were greeted by the gentle sounds of a live harpist on the rooftop terrace as we enjoyed breakfast. That detail alone added a blissful, almost cinematic touch to our mornings.
Of course, no hotel is without its quirks — especially in its early months. We did encounter a running toilet that maintenance wasn’t able to fix during our stay (I managed a temporary workaround myself), and the deadbolt initially didn’t operate, though that was swiftly resolved. Housekeeping also tended to service the room while we were out sightseeing during the day, which wasn’t ideal timing. We raised it with the concierge, but the pattern persisted.
Still, these minor issues didn’t detract from the overall experience. And any imperfections were gracefully offset by one last thoughtful gesture at departure: we were gifted beautifully curated mementos — LEGO sets for our children and elegantly scented candles for the adults.
Final thoughts? A solid 9/10. We loved our stay and would return without hesitation. Orient Express La Minerva is a jewel in the heart of Rome — and a hotel experience worth savoring.
Where We Ate: Taverna Trilussa
Dining at Taverna Trilussa is an unforgettable experience that effortlessly blends Roman tradition with culinary excellence. Nestled in the heart of Trastevere, this charming and authentic trattoria delivers a meal that is both soulful and refined.
The undisputed star of the evening was the Ravioli Mimosa — a dish that lives up to its celebrated reputation. Rich, delicate, and bursting with flavor, paired with a Sauvignon DOC from Azienda Drius, a beautiful pairing that enhanced each nuanced bite. The dish itself is a two-time winner of the National Golden Forks competition.
Equally impressive was the Bucatini all’Amatriciana, a robust Roman classic elevated by the boldness of homemade bacon and the sharp, salty bite of Pecorino cheese. Rich, comforting, and executed with mastery.
Taverna Trilussa is not just a meal, it’s a celebration of Roman heritage — the warm atmosphere, impeccable service, and a menu rooted in tradition make this a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic dining experience in Rome.
Tuscany: Castelfalfi
Our stay at Castelfalfi in Tuscany was nothing short of magical — the kind of place that makes you question whether you’ve stumbled onto a movie set designed for the perfect countryside escape. From the moment we arrived, we were enveloped in luxury: a magnificent floral arrangement greeted us in the lobby, accompanied by the bespoke scent of Castelfalfi’s own fragrance — elegant, calming, and utterly unique.
The resort itself is beautifully designed with thoughtful and creative touches throughout — rich tapestry finishes, cool slabs of imported Italian marble, and a dreamy bed setup featuring both foam and down pillows.
We immersed ourselves in several of the resort’s family-friendly activities, though be warned — they come at a hefty price. We participated in Start the Fire, Falconry, Pizza Making, and Wine Tasting. Start the Fire felt a bit underwhelming in execution, though the instructor, Adam, was fascinating — a true Renaissance man with a background in military special forces, survivalist skills, falconry, skydiving, and anti-poaching safaris. While Adam elevated the experience, it still felt more designed for children, making the cost for adults — who mostly watched and took photos — feel excessive.
Pizza Making was an absolute highlight. Led by the chef at Il Rosmarino, we learned how to craft the perfect pizza using incredibly fresh ingredients. Again, the programming overall is very child-centric, so adults may want to set expectations accordingly.
As for dining, Il Rosmarino was our favorite — consistently good, charming atmosphere, and the food was as fresh and flavorful as one would expect from Tuscany. Breakfast at Olivina was fantastic, but dinner there didn’t quite meet the bar set by the rest of the property — decent, but not memorable, and overpriced for the experience.
We had high hopes for our date night at the fine dining restaurant, La Rocca, but it got off on the wrong foot. Despite my boyfriend being dressed appropriately (collared shirt, shoes, tailored shorts), we were turned away for not wearing pants — in 100°F weather — and were told repeatedly, and somewhat rudely, that the dress code was strictly enforced. Later, we discovered the policy was actually “pants recommended” and at the staff’s discretion. This left a bad taste in our mouths, particularly given the restaurant is on the resort property and we were prepared to spend over €400 on dinner. To their credit, the concierge was mortified when we shared the incident and apologized profusely.
One oddity: the charming-looking town on the property — while picturesque — felt eerily artificial, like a film set with faux storefronts. Shopping opportunities were basically nonexistent, which was a shame given the otherwise impeccable attention to detail everywhere else.
Despite a few bumps, we thoroughly enjoyed our time at Castelfalfi. The views alone — rolling hills, sun-drenched vineyards, and postcard-perfect landscapes — were enough to lull us into a state of bliss.
Would we return? Absolutely. We’d just skip La Rocca, prepare to be spectators during the kids’ activities, and keep our expectations in check for the “town.” For anyone looking to unwind in the Tuscan countryside in a place that’s as relaxing as it is surreal, Castelfalfi delivers a near-perfect escape.
Capri: Jumeirah Capri Palace
Capri had been on our travel bucket list for years. When the time finally came to plan the trip, we were after something special — something truly luxurious. After scouring reviews and drooling over Instagram photos, we landed on Jumeirah Capri Palace. A five-star resort perched at the top of Anacapri, overlooking a coastline dotted with multi-million dollar yachts — it looked like the dream.
We expected the full luxury experience. We were booking a presidential suite, spending upwards of €50,000 for just three nights, and coordinating private transfers, boat rentals, and fine dining. Naturally, we turned to the hotel concierge to help. That’s where the trouble started.
The Booking Process: More Like a Waiting Game
Before we even arrived, communicating with the concierge was… painfully slow. If we were lucky, we’d get one email response every 24 hours — and often, our original questions weren’t fully answered. When you’re booking an eight-hour private yacht and planning dinners across the island, this kind of delay is not just annoying — it’s unacceptable at this level of supposed service.
Arrival: Glamorous on the Surface, but…
Once we arrived, things seemed to look up — at first. The welcome was warm, with multiple staff members checking us in while we sat down for lunch. But what was meant to be a quick lunch turned into a nearly two-hour ordeal before we were finally shown to our room. After a long day of travel, we then waited another hour for our luggage to arrive.
The Room: Not What You’d Expect for €50,000
The biggest letdown? The room. It was dated, with furniture that looked like it came from a college dorm circa 2001 — IKEA vibes, chipped edges, broken drawers. For a resort billing itself as the pinnacle of five-star luxury, it was a major disappointment.
To be fair, we weren’t in the presidential suite ourselves — but our business travel partner was. That suite, by the way, is affectionately (and bafflingly) called The Gwyneth Paltrow Suite. Once you walk in, it becomes glaringly obvious why: Gwyneth is everywhere. Framed photos, oversized paintings, decorative shrines to Goop herself — it felt less like a luxury suite and more like a celebrity-themed Airbnb.
Saving Grace: Zuma Rooftop
One shining star in the whole experience was Zuma, the rooftop restaurant. The concierge pulled through with a reservation for our group of eight, and we were blown away. The atmosphere was electric — a total contrast to the hotel itself. Great music, stylish crowd, excellent sushi and wagyu. We loved it so much we came back the next night. If you’re headed to Capri, this place is a must.
Night One: Sauna Sleep & Loud Beats
Our “upgraded” room turned out to be right next to the rooftop DJ — awesome for Zuma, not so much for sleep. The AC was broken (and it was 101°F that day), making the room uncomfortably hot and impossible to rest in. We raised the issue, and to their credit, the hotel did move us to a better room the next day. But even then, they refused to comp the first night. For the price we were paying, that felt petty and deeply disappointing.
Final Thoughts on Capri
Capri is undeniably beautiful, but also shockingly overpriced. If you’re expecting pristine luxury accommodations and seamless service, be prepared for a reality check. That said, do not miss Zuma. It’s the vibe, the view, and the food you’ll actually remember.
Would we return to Jumeirah Capri Palace? Honestly — no. But would we fly back to Capri just for that rooftop sushi and a killer sunset at Zuma? Maybe.
Oh, and last thing… don’t get duped by the 2-star Michelin restaurant there, unless you like raw lamb, strawberry spaghetti for dessert, and 75 EUR sparkling water.
Sorrento: Hotel Mediterraneo
After two weeks of bouncing around Italy in search of the best luxury experiences — some hits, some misses — we finally found our perfect stay at the end of the trip: Hotel Mediterraneo Sorrento.
We did a lot of research to find a place in Sorrento that actually sits seaside (so many “coastal” hotels are perched far above the water), and Hotel Mediterraneo stood out for two reasons: stunning views and a private elevator that takes you directly to a real sandy beach. In a region dominated by rocky shorelines and steep cliffs, this was a major win.
From Naples to Paradise (With a Slight Detour)
Originally, we had planned to arrive by boat — Hotel Mediterraneo even has its own private dock. But thanks to an unexpected air traffic control strike in France (don’t ask), those plans changed, and the hotel sent a private driver to pick us up in Naples. A seamless, stress-free ride down the coast was exactly what we needed.
Check-in was smooth and refreshingly quick. The staff not only escorted us to our room, they rode the elevator up with us and placed our bags inside. Simple detail, but one that really made the service feel personal.
What We Loved
- The Rooms: Beautiful, clean, and thoughtfully designed. And unlike other “luxury” properties we stayed at in Italy, the air conditioning actually worked. Yes, that deserves its own line.
- The Pool + Bar: We headed straight to the pool after check-in and were immediately sold. Not only is the pool area gorgeous, but the pool bar restaurant served the best casual food and drinks we had during our entire time in Italy. Think fresh spritzes, light bites, friendly service, and that perfect golden-hour glow.
- The Price: Here’s the kicker — Hotel Mediterraneo was the most affordable stay of our entire two-week trip, and yet it delivered the highest level of comfort, service, and enjoyment. A rare find in a town known for sky-high prices.
Final Thoughts on Sorrento
Everyone at the hotel was kind, welcoming, and genuinely seemed to care that we were enjoying ourselves. After some overpriced, underwhelming stops elsewhere, this was the refreshing, warm-hearted experience we needed before flying home.
Hotel Mediterraneo was the perfect last stop of the main trip — close enough to Rome for a smooth travel day, but far enough removed to soak in that final bit of coastal magic.
10/10 would recommend. We’d absolutely stay here again.
The Unexpected Finale: QC Termeroma
After two incredible weeks exploring Italy, we returned to Rome for one final night before flying out of FCO. Wanting to avoid the typical airport hotel experience, I searched for something more luxurious near the airport. That’s when I stumbled across QC Termeroma, a property that boasted beautiful grounds, a tranquil atmosphere, and rave reviews.
And it’s true — the property is stunning. The gardens are expansive and well-kept, perfect for strolling, and the spa facilities add to the sense of retreat. It all seemed like the perfect way to end our trip… until check-in took an unexpected turn.
We were warmly welcomed, but then immediately asked: “What time would you like to attend happy hour?” Followed by, “You’ll need to wear bathrobes.” Bathrobes? At happy hour? Sure enough, it was mandatory. Curious (and a little amused), we played along, suited up in robes, and headed to the gathering.
The scene was… unique. Picture a Roman bathhouse vibe, couples everywhere, and a somewhat “swinger-y” energy in the air. Not exactly the serene spa experience we had imagined. We opted instead for a walk around the grounds, taking in the ambiance and laughing at the surprise twist to our stay.
For our room, I had booked the largest suite available, expecting refined luxury. What we got felt more like a one-bedroom apartment — spacious but furnished with oddly dated pieces that didn’t match the elegance of the grounds. At a higher rate than the nearby Hilton, I expected more consistency.
All in all, QC Termeroma was definitely an experience. The setting is gorgeous, and the idea of a spa hotel near the airport is brilliant. But what the reviews didn’t prepare us for were the quirks: robe-clad happy hours, a bathhouse-style spa that seemed more social than serene, and a suite that didn’t live up to the price tag.
It wasn’t the farewell to Italy we expected — but it sure made for a memorable story.
The Verdict: Ranking the Trip
If you’re planning your own Italy loop and want the short version:
- Tuscany (Castelfalfi) — Unmatched views and a near-perfect countryside escape.
- Rome (Orient Express La Minerva) — Gorgeous, refined, a few early-days kinks.
- Sorrento (Hotel Mediterraneo) — Best value and warmest service of the trip.
- Capri (Jumeirah Capri Palace) — Complete letdown (minus Zuma).
And a few honorable mentions: Taverna Trilussa in Trastevere was hands-down the best single meal of the trip, and QC Termeroma gets a special shoutout for the most unexpectedly funny last night we’ve ever had at a five-star spa resort.
Two weeks, four completely different sides of Italy, one incredible dinner, and one bathrobe-mandated happy hour we never saw coming — and honestly, we wouldn’t change a thing (except maybe skipping La Rocca’s dress code drama). If you’re mapping out your own version of this trip, hopefully this saves you a little guesswork.
Planning your own Italy trip? I’ve got the exact contacts, reservations, and insider details for every stop above — reach out and I’ll help you put together your own version of this itinerary. Get in touch
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